{"id":395,"date":"2008-03-25T22:29:21","date_gmt":"2008-03-25T21:29:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/michelgurfinkiel.com\/blog\/?p=395"},"modified":"2021-01-14T21:13:47","modified_gmt":"2021-01-14T20:13:47","slug":"food-kosher-in-paris-2008","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/michelgurfinkiel.com\/blog\/en\/food-kosher-in-paris-2008\/","title":{"rendered":"Food\/ Kosher in Paris, 2008"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

The authoritative briefing about being kosher and surviving in Paris. Since 1999. The Eigth Edition.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Paris is a kosher experience ! <\/p>\n

France is the leading nation in the world when it comes to quality food. It also hosts a vibrant, diverse and fairly traditional Jewish community. Quite naturally, some kind of interaction had to take place. Especially in Paris, the capital city, where one inhabitant out of ten is said to be Jewish, and in a number of suburban boroughs in Greater Paris, like Neuilly, Boulogne, Levallois, Montrouge, Montreuil, Charenton, Saint-Mandé, Vincennes, Créteil, Sarcelles, with an equally important Jewish population.<\/p>\n

All in all, there are almost 300 kosher restaurants or take-away places, as well as groceries, butchers, wine merchants, bars and delicatessen shops. <\/p>\n

« Kosher »<\/em> really means « kosher »<\/em> in Paris. It is a matter of conformity with the religious dietary laws, not of ethnicity. Traditional Ashkenazi food (Polish, Russian, Hungarian) is almost extinct or survives only as « New York Style Food »<\/em>. Traditional Sefardi food (Moroccan, Algerian, Tunisian) is quickly receding. What really is in demand is French high cuisine or nouvelle cuisine, Word Food or « Fusion Food »<\/em>, Italian cooking, Chinese and Japanese food, Tex-Mex, Indian gastronomy.<\/p>\n

The most impressive success story, as far as kosher restaurants are concerned, is Sushi West, a kosher sushi bar chain established in the late 1990’s. It now owns ten outlets all over Paris, including in places like the elegant Left Bank where kosher food was deemed to be unpopular. While strictly kosher, it is designed and managed in order to attracts both Jewish and non-Jewish patrons. Some of the dishes have been supervised by the famous non-kosher cook Ghislaine Arabian.<\/p>\n

Most restaurants are under the supervision of the Paris Beth-Din (BDP\/Beth-Din de Paris). Some are under the supervision of the Lubavitch Rabbinate (Vaad Rabbanei Lubavitch) or of the Orthodox Chief Rabbi of Paris, Chief Rabbi Mordekhai Rotenberg (CIOP\/Kehilath ha Haredim). <\/p>\n

Jewish food shops may or may not be under supervision but sell only sealed products under hashgachah. In addition to the aforementioned hashgachoth, many other French, European, Israeli or American hashgachoth are to be found in this respect : Rav Frankforter in Paris (Adath Yereim), Rav Katz in Paris (Kehilath Yereim), the Rabbinates of Strasbourg, Marseilles, Lyon, the Manchester Beth-Din, the Israeli Rabbinate, the Jerusalem Badatz, OU, etc.<\/p>\n

More details are to be found on line :<\/p>\n

° www.consitoire.org : the Consistoire (National Synagogue of France) and Paris Beth-Din website.
\n° www.123cacher.com : a website about kosher restaurants in Paris.
\n° www.mangercacher.com : another website about kosher restaurants in Paris.
\n° www.shamash.org\/kosher : an American Orthodox website ; the Paris page is remarkably complete and accurate.<\/p>\n

There are no full-fledged  « ethnic  Jewish neighbourhoods »<\/em> in Paris proper or the suburbs, like Boro Park or Williamsburg  in Brooklyn, but several « Jewish clusters »<\/em> with a high concentration of kosher restaurants, eating places, caterers and shops. As of 2008, ten such clusters can be listed :<\/p>\n

1. The Old Plaetzel or Saint Paul Area<\/strong> in the 4th District of Paris, around Rue des Rosiers (Metro : Saint Paul), and the Marais area. Rue des Rosiers used to be the « Jewish street »<\/em> par excellence in Paris. However, the Socialist Mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoe, ruthlessly enforced in the mid-2000’s an urban redesigning program that transformed it into a gentrified pedestrian neighborhood. Many of the former Jewish shops gave way to fashion boutiques or gay bars. Two thirds of the bookshops and one half of the restaurants are gone (including the famous Goldenberg). The only part of the Old Plaetzel that still bears as a fully Jewish character is the Rue Pavée, where both the famous Hector Guimard Orthodox Synagogue and the Orthodox Yad-Mordekhai Great Yeshivah are located.<\/p>\n

2. Faubourg Montmartre<\/strong> in the 9th District, around Rue Richer, Rue Geoffroy Marie, and Rue Lafayette ( Metro : Les Grands Boulevards\/Rue Montmartre, Cadet, Le Pelletier). It used to be a typical Alsatian, Hungarian and North African neighborhood. Many shops and restaurants are gone. However, some new places have been opened recently. <\/p>\n

3. The 19th District<\/strong>, from the Buttes Chaumont Park, especially along  Rue Manin, to Porte de la Villette (Metro : Jean Jaurès). Young Orthodox or neo-Orthodox families tended to settle there throughout the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s. Many are now leaving for the more affluend and safer Paris West End. Still, there are many shops and restaurants in the area.<\/p>\n

4. Belleville<\/strong>, where the 11th and 20th Districts meet, along Boulevard de Belleville (Metro : Belleville). Back in the first half of the 20th century, it used to be a working class Jewish neighborhood. Then, after 1960, it housed many Jewish refugees from North Africa. Immigrants from the Maghreb, India, South East Asia and the Far East have now largely taken over the area. There are still some Jewish shops and restaurants.<\/p>\n

5. The Voltaire\/Nation  neighbourhood<\/strong>  in the 11th District, along Boulevard Voltaire (Metro : Voltaire\/Leon Blum and Rue des Boulets). A booming neo-Orthodox neighborhood. Lot of shops, some restaurants.<\/p>\n

6. The 12th District and the Greater Paris East End<\/strong> (Saint-Mandé, Vincennes, Charenton). A new and rapidly expanding Jewish neighborhood, with many shops and restaurants.<\/p>\n

7. The Greater Paris West End<\/strong> : the 17th District, in the affluent North-West of Paris, which has established itself as the leading  kosher centre as far as restaurants are concerned (Métro : Ternes, Wagram, Malesherbes, Péreire) ; the even more affluent 16th District and Neuilly ; La Défense and Puteaux. Scores of shops and restaurants.<\/p>\n

8. The Left Bank. <\/strong>Although many Jews live there, it was until recently a desert in terms of kosher food. Things are now improving. There are many shops and small restaurants, and even several high quality restaurants in the very exclusive 5th, 6th and 7th Districts.
\n
\n9. The Sarcelles and Epinay area <\/strong>in the Northern suburbs.<\/p>\n

10. Créteil <\/strong>in the South-Eastern suburbs.<\/p>\n

\n\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/<\/p>\n

A SELECTION.<\/strong><\/p>\n

1. PLAETZEL AND MARAIS VICINITY.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mi Va Mi.
\n23, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 42 71 53 72.
\nFalafel and Grill. Moderately priced. Not bad at all.<\/p>\n

L’As du Falafel.
\n34, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 48 87 63 60.
\nFalafel and Grill.<\/p>\n

Micky’s Deli.
\n23 bis, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 48 04 79 31.
\nAmerican Style Hamburgers and Grill.<\/p>\n

Korcarz.
\n29, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 42 77 39 47.
\nBakery and Dairy Delicatessen.<\/p>\n

Saada.
\n17, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 42 77 76 22.
\nQuality Butcher and Delicatessen.<\/p>\n

Panzer.
\n26, rue des Rosiers.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 42 72 91 06.
\nQuality Delicatessen.<\/p>\n

Pitzmann.
\n8, rue Pavée.
\n75004 Paris.
\n01 42 71 17 17.
\nDairy Pizza and Salads. Quite friendly.<\/p>\n

Bagel’s Store.
\n31, rue de Turenne.
\n75003 Paris.
\n01 44 78 06 05.
\nAmerican Style Bagels and Delicatessen.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Bretagne.
\n10, rue de Bretagne.
\n75003 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushi West’s Marais outlet.<\/p>\n

Lotus de Nissane.
\n39, rue Amelot.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 55 80 42.
\nA Chinese-looking, Chinese-run, kosher Chinese restaurant with a Japanese wing. <\/p>\n

Tchapai.
\n53, rue Amelot.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 38 88 40.
\nTex-Mex.<\/p>\n

\n2. FAUBOURG MONTMARTRE.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les Ailes.
\n34 rue Richer.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 47 70 62 53.
\nGood couscous, excellent meat. There is a Take-Away department. Open on Shabbath (the meals, however, must be paid for in advance).<\/p>\n

Douieb.
\n11 bis rue Geoffroy Marie.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 47 70 86 09.
\nIt looks like a Middle Eastern shop. Tasty and unexpensive North African dishes. Open all day but closes at 9 PM.<\/p>\n

Yarden.
\n9 rue Geoffroy Marie.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 42 47 15 65.
\nAsk for Mr Richard. Hearty sandwiches and delicatessen.<\/p>\n

Izaaki.
\n35 rue Lafayette.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 53 16 43 48.
\nArguably one of the best Far Eastern kosher restaurants in the world. Outstanding Japanese food and Japanese-French fusion food. Tunisian management, Chinese service, Japanese cooks. <\/p>\n

Il Palazzo.
\n17, rue Lafayette.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 48 74 60 31.
\nDairy Pizza and Pasta.<\/p>\n

Casa Rina.
\n18, rue du Faubourg Montmartre.
\n75009 Paris.
\n01 45 23 02 22.
\nDairy Pizza and Pasta. Very Friendly.<\/p>\n

Baan Hai.
\n62, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
\n75001 Paris.
\n01 40 28 99 04.
\nThai cuisine. Close to the Louvre Museum.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Lamartine.
\n26, rue Lamartine.
\n75009 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushis, etc.<\/p>\n

\n3. THE 19TH AND BUTTES-CHAUMONT AREA.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mi Pi El.
\n41, avenue Secrétan.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 40 18 16 16.
\nCouscouss and Grill.<\/p>\n

La Chaumière.
\n46, avenue Secrétan.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 06 54 69.
\nFrench High Cuisine. Expensive.<\/p>\n

House Grill.
\n44 rue d’Hautpoul.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 01 20 30.
\nChinese. Not bad.<\/p>\n

Petit Pelleport.
\n52 rue d’Hautpoul.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 01 20 17.
\nFrench style. Unassuming.<\/p>\n

La Villa de Chine.
\n157, boulevard Serrurier.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 41 52 37.
\nChinese.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Manin.
\n4, avenue de la Porte de Chaumont.
\n75019 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushis, etc.<\/p>\n

La Marina.
\n159, rue Manin.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 01 36 26.
\nPizzas and Pasta.<\/p>\n

Gin Fizz.
\n157, avenue Serrurier.
\n75019 Paris.
\n01 42 00 51 28.
\nPizzas and Pasta.<\/p>\n

\n4. BELLEVILLE.<\/strong><\/p>\n

La Lumière de Belleville.
\n102, boulevard de Belleville.
\n75020 Paris.
\n01 47 97 51 83.
\nTunisian. Unassuming. Unexpensive. Quite funny in the summer.<\/p>\n

Chez René et Gabin.
\n92, boulevard de Belleville.
\n75020 Paris.
\n01 43 58 78 14.
\nClassic Tunisian Food. Hearty, delicious, unexpensive.<\/p>\n

Le Relais.
\n69, boulevard de Belleville.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 57 83 91.
\nGrill.<\/p>\n

\n5. VOLTAIRE-NATION.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Yun Pana.
\n115 boulevard Voltaire.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 79 20 48.
\nChinese, Thai, Japanese. <\/p>\n

Le Puits de Jacob.
\n54, rue Godefroy de Cavaignac.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 56 06 68.
\nMoroccan cuisine. Under (questionable) Moroccan hashgachah. <\/p>\n

L’Eden.
\n247, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine.
\n75011 Paris.
\n01 43 72 88 99.
\nFrench, New Style.<\/p>\n

\n6. THE EAST END.<\/strong><\/p>\n

O You.
\n164, avenue Daumesnil.
\n75012 Paris.
\n01 43 07 68 97.
\nFrench Cuisine.<\/p>\n

Le Cadre.
\n87, avenue de Paris.
\n94160 Saint-Mandé.
\n01 43 28 38 43.
\nFrench and Italian Cuisine.<\/p>\n

Le Cadre.
\n125, boulevard de Créteil.
\n94100 Saint-Maur.
\n01 55 97 40 06.
\nFrench and Italian Cuisine.<\/p>\n

Le Petit Cadre.
\n2\/4, avenue du Château.
\n94000 Vincennes.
\n01 43 98 24 21.
\nFrench and Italian Cuisine.<\/p>\n

\n7. THE WEST END.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cine-Citta.
\n7, rue d’Aguesseau.
\n75008 Paris.
\n01 42 68 05 03.
\nDairy Italian. Nice setting, almost across the Elysee Palace (the President of the Republic’s palace). Excellent and quite unexpensive.<\/p>\n

Il Conte.
\n36, rue de Berry.
\n75008 Paris.
\n01 49 53 01 21.
\nDairy Italian, Pasta and Pizza. Excellent, quite unexpensive.<\/p>\n

Inter Caffè.
\n22, rue Cambacérès.
\n75008 Paris.
\n01 40 07 03 90.
\nDairy, French Style. Not bad,  innovative. <\/p>\n

Fradgi.
\n42 rue Poncelet.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 47 54 91 40.
\nTunisian. Arguably the best kosher food in town. Natural and flavoury. Excellent fish. Moderately expensive. Ask Mr Fradgi.<\/p>\n

Missada.
\n45 rue Laugier.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 46 22 11 77.
\nChinese, Thai. Run by Mr Fradgi’s son. Pleasant place, valuable food, generous helpings, not very expensive. <\/p>\n

Jeannot.
\n110 bis rue Cardinet.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 47 63 71 02.
\nTunisian. <\/p>\n

Dado’s.
\n39, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 47 63 06 06.
\nSnack & Take-Away. Tunisian, French, Oriental, Asian. Excellent food. Rather unexpensive.<\/p>\n

Contini Wagram
\n81, avenue de Wagram.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 48 88 98 16.
\nSnack & Take-Away. French.<\/p>\n

Darjeeling.
\n1 bis rue des Colonels Renard.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 45 72 09 32.
\nIndian. Outstanding food, Glatt-Kosher. Take-Away Service. Not very expensive. Make sure to make a reservation in the evening.<\/p>\n

Darima.
\n89,  avenue des Ternes.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 45 72 50 50.
\nMoroccan. Excellent Mixed Grill & Tajines.<\/p>\n

Jardins du Belvédère.
\n111, avenue de Villiers.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 42 27 16 91.
\nDelicatessen, take-away, Tunisian, Chinese. Quite good (the Chinese dishes are even outstanding) and quite moderately-priced. Open all day but closes at 8 or 9 PM.<\/p>\n

Brasserie du Belvédère.
\n109, avenue de Villiers.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 47 64 96 55.
\nA French style traditionnal « brasserie ». The food has notably improved over the last year.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Jouffroy.
\n1, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans.
\n75017 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nThe original place.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Villiers.
\n39, avenue de Villiers.
\n75017 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushis, etc.<\/p>\n

Le Chateaubriand.
\n125 rue de Tocqueville
\n75017 Paris
\n01 47 63 96 90.
\nHigh quality French cuisine. Innovative. Quite expensive.<\/p>\n

Le Cosy.
\n88 rue Pierre Demours.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 46 22 17 07.
\nNew Style French cuisine. <\/p>\n

Noa.
\n142 rue de Courcelles.
\n75017 Paris.
\n01 44 40 04 47.
\nFrench. <\/p>\n

Il Conte Poincaré.
\n47, avenue Raymond Poincaré.
\n75116 Paris.
\n01 47 27 98 40.
\nDairy Pasta and Pizzas.<\/p>\n

L’Asiatik.
\n47, avenue Raymond Poincaré.
\n75116 Paris.
\n01 44 05 05 44.
\nChinese, Japanese, Thai.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Longchamp.
\n12, rue de Longchamp.
\n75116 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushis, etc.<\/p>\n

Yapany.
\n23, rue Copernic.
\n75116 Paris.
\n01 45 00 12 12.
\nSnack, Japanese and Chinese.<\/p>\n

L’Osmose.
\n31, avenue de Versailles.
\n75016 Paris.
\n01 45 20 74 12.
\nFrench, Fusion Food.<\/p>\n

Kavod.
\n26, rue Jean Mermoz.
\n75008 Paris.
\n01 42 25 65 26.
\nFrench.<\/p>\n

Le 138.
\n138, rue de la Pompe.
\n75116 Paris.
\n01 47 27 99 39.
\nFrench.<\/p>\n

Yun Pana Neuilly.
\n18, avenue du Général de Gaulle.
\n92200 Neuilly.
\n01 47 22 37 25.
\nChinese, Thai, Japanese.<\/p>\n

King David.
\n14, rue Paul Chartrousse.
\n92200 Neuilly.
\n01 47 45 18 19.
\nFrench.<\/p>\n

Twenty Six.
\n69, rue Marius Auffan.
\n92300 Levallois-Péret.
\n01 47 57 37 22.
\nFrench and Mediterranean.<\/p>\n


\n8. THE LEFT BANK<\/strong><\/p>\n

Le Télégraphe.
\n41, rue de Lille.
\n75007 Paris.
\n01 42 92 03 04.
\nA posh kosher restaurant right in the most elegant  Left Bank area. Breathtaking Art Nouveau decor. Outstanding French cuisine. Outrageous prices. Make sure to make a reservation.<\/p>\n

Sushi West Saint-Germain.
\n169, boulevard Saint-Germain.
\n75006 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nRight in the middle of Saint-Germain des Prés !<\/p>\n

Sushi West La Croix Nivert.
\n236, rue de la Croix Nivert.
\n75015 Paris.
\n08 26 88 26 88.
\nSushis, etc.<\/p>\n

Alef-Bet.
\n25, rue Galande.
\n75005 Paris.
\n01 40 18 17 22.
\nNot a restaurant but a high quality cuisine school. Sandwiches and hot meals are being served throughout the day. Close to Notre-Dame and the Seine River.<\/p>\n

\n\/\/\/\/\/<\/p>\n

© Michel Gurfinkiel, 2008
\nCopyright strictly enforced.<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<\/p>\n

The authoritative briefing about being kosher and surviving in Paris. Since 1999. The Eigth Edition.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

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