The authoritative briefing about being kosher and surviving in Paris. Since 1999. The Eigth Edition.
Paris is a kosher experience !
France is the leading nation in the world when it comes to quality food. It also hosts a vibrant, diverse and fairly traditional Jewish community. Quite naturally, some kind of interaction had to take place. Especially in Paris, the capital city, where one inhabitant out of ten is said to be Jewish, and in a number of suburban boroughs in Greater Paris, like Neuilly, Boulogne, Levallois, Montrouge, Montreuil, Charenton, Saint-Mandé, Vincennes, Créteil, Sarcelles, with an equally important Jewish population.
All in all, there are almost 300 kosher restaurants or take-away places, as well as groceries, butchers, wine merchants, bars and delicatessen shops.
« Kosher » really means « kosher » in Paris. It is a matter of conformity with the religious dietary laws, not of ethnicity. Traditional Ashkenazi food (Polish, Russian, Hungarian) is almost extinct or survives only as « New York Style Food ». Traditional Sefardi food (Moroccan, Algerian, Tunisian) is quickly receding. What really is in demand is French high cuisine or nouvelle cuisine, Word Food or « Fusion Food », Italian cooking, Chinese and Japanese food, Tex-Mex, Indian gastronomy.
The most impressive success story, as far as kosher restaurants are concerned, is Sushi West, a kosher sushi bar chain established in the late 1990’s. It now owns ten outlets all over Paris, including in places like the elegant Left Bank where kosher food was deemed to be unpopular. While strictly kosher, it is designed and managed in order to attracts both Jewish and non-Jewish patrons. Some of the dishes have been supervised by the famous non-kosher cook Ghislaine Arabian.
Most restaurants are under the supervision of the Paris Beth-Din (BDP/Beth-Din de Paris). Some are under the supervision of the Lubavitch Rabbinate (Vaad Rabbanei Lubavitch) or of the Orthodox Chief Rabbi of Paris, Chief Rabbi Mordekhai Rotenberg (CIOP/Kehilath ha Haredim).
Jewish food shops may or may not be under supervision but sell only sealed products under hashgachah. In addition to the aforementioned hashgachoth, many other French, European, Israeli or American hashgachoth are to be found in this respect : Rav Frankforter in Paris (Adath Yereim), Rav Katz in Paris (Kehilath Yereim), the Rabbinates of Strasbourg, Marseilles, Lyon, the Manchester Beth-Din, the Israeli Rabbinate, the Jerusalem Badatz, OU, etc.
More details are to be found on line :
° www.consitoire.org : the Consistoire (National Synagogue of France) and Paris Beth-Din website.
° www.123cacher.com : a website about kosher restaurants in Paris.
° www.mangercacher.com : another website about kosher restaurants in Paris.
° www.shamash.org/kosher : an American Orthodox website ; the Paris page is remarkably complete and accurate.
There are no full-fledged « ethnic Jewish neighbourhoods » in Paris proper or the suburbs, like Boro Park or Williamsburg in Brooklyn, but several « Jewish clusters » with a high concentration of kosher restaurants, eating places, caterers and shops. As of 2008, ten such clusters can be listed :
1. The Old Plaetzel or Saint Paul Area in the 4th District of Paris, around Rue des Rosiers (Metro : Saint Paul), and the Marais area. Rue des Rosiers used to be the « Jewish street » par excellence in Paris. However, the Socialist Mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoe, ruthlessly enforced in the mid-2000’s an urban redesigning program that transformed it into a gentrified pedestrian neighborhood. Many of the former Jewish shops gave way to fashion boutiques or gay bars. Two thirds of the bookshops and one half of the restaurants are gone (including the famous Goldenberg). The only part of the Old Plaetzel that still bears as a fully Jewish character is the Rue Pavée, where both the famous Hector Guimard Orthodox Synagogue and the Orthodox Yad-Mordekhai Great Yeshivah are located.
2. Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th District, around Rue Richer, Rue Geoffroy Marie, and Rue Lafayette ( Metro : Les Grands Boulevards/Rue Montmartre, Cadet, Le Pelletier). It used to be a typical Alsatian, Hungarian and North African neighborhood. Many shops and restaurants are gone. However, some new places have been opened recently.
3. The 19th District, from the Buttes Chaumont Park, especially along Rue Manin, to Porte de la Villette (Metro : Jean Jaurès). Young Orthodox or neo-Orthodox families tended to settle there throughout the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s. Many are now leaving for the more affluend and safer Paris West End. Still, there are many shops and restaurants in the area.
4. Belleville, where the 11th and 20th Districts meet, along Boulevard de Belleville (Metro : Belleville). Back in the first half of the 20th century, it used to be a working class Jewish neighborhood. Then, after 1960, it housed many Jewish refugees from North Africa. Immigrants from the Maghreb, India, South East Asia and the Far East have now largely taken over the area. There are still some Jewish shops and restaurants.
5. The Voltaire/Nation neighbourhood in the 11th District, along Boulevard Voltaire (Metro : Voltaire/Leon Blum and Rue des Boulets). A booming neo-Orthodox neighborhood. Lot of shops, some restaurants.
6. The 12th District and the Greater Paris East End (Saint-Mandé, Vincennes, Charenton). A new and rapidly expanding Jewish neighborhood, with many shops and restaurants.
7. The Greater Paris West End : the 17th District, in the affluent North-West of Paris, which has established itself as the leading kosher centre as far as restaurants are concerned (Métro : Ternes, Wagram, Malesherbes, Péreire) ; the even more affluent 16th District and Neuilly ; La Défense and Puteaux. Scores of shops and restaurants.
8. The Left Bank. Although many Jews live there, it was until recently a desert in terms of kosher food. Things are now improving. There are many shops and small restaurants, and even several high quality restaurants in the very exclusive 5th, 6th and 7th Districts.
9. The Sarcelles and Epinay area in the Northern suburbs.
10. Créteil in the South-Eastern suburbs.
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A SELECTION.
1. PLAETZEL AND MARAIS VICINITY.
Mi Va Mi.
23, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 42 71 53 72.
Falafel and Grill. Moderately priced. Not bad at all.
L’As du Falafel.
34, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 48 87 63 60.
Falafel and Grill.
Micky’s Deli.
23 bis, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 48 04 79 31.
American Style Hamburgers and Grill.
Korcarz.
29, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 42 77 39 47.
Bakery and Dairy Delicatessen.
Saada.
17, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 42 77 76 22.
Quality Butcher and Delicatessen.
Panzer.
26, rue des Rosiers.
75004 Paris.
01 42 72 91 06.
Quality Delicatessen.
Pitzmann.
8, rue Pavée.
75004 Paris.
01 42 71 17 17.
Dairy Pizza and Salads. Quite friendly.
Bagel’s Store.
31, rue de Turenne.
75003 Paris.
01 44 78 06 05.
American Style Bagels and Delicatessen.
Sushi West Bretagne.
10, rue de Bretagne.
75003 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushi West’s Marais outlet.
Lotus de Nissane.
39, rue Amelot.
75011 Paris.
01 43 55 80 42.
A Chinese-looking, Chinese-run, kosher Chinese restaurant with a Japanese wing.
Tchapai.
53, rue Amelot.
75011 Paris.
01 43 38 88 40.
Tex-Mex.
2. FAUBOURG MONTMARTRE.
Les Ailes.
34 rue Richer.
75009 Paris.
01 47 70 62 53.
Good couscous, excellent meat. There is a Take-Away department. Open on Shabbath (the meals, however, must be paid for in advance).
Douieb.
11 bis rue Geoffroy Marie.
75009 Paris.
01 47 70 86 09.
It looks like a Middle Eastern shop. Tasty and unexpensive North African dishes. Open all day but closes at 9 PM.
Yarden.
9 rue Geoffroy Marie.
75009 Paris.
01 42 47 15 65.
Ask for Mr Richard. Hearty sandwiches and delicatessen.
Izaaki.
35 rue Lafayette.
75009 Paris.
01 53 16 43 48.
Arguably one of the best Far Eastern kosher restaurants in the world. Outstanding Japanese food and Japanese-French fusion food. Tunisian management, Chinese service, Japanese cooks.
Il Palazzo.
17, rue Lafayette.
75009 Paris.
01 48 74 60 31.
Dairy Pizza and Pasta.
Casa Rina.
18, rue du Faubourg Montmartre.
75009 Paris.
01 45 23 02 22.
Dairy Pizza and Pasta. Very Friendly.
Baan Hai.
62, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
75001 Paris.
01 40 28 99 04.
Thai cuisine. Close to the Louvre Museum.
Sushi West Lamartine.
26, rue Lamartine.
75009 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushis, etc.
3. THE 19TH AND BUTTES-CHAUMONT AREA.
Mi Pi El.
41, avenue Secrétan.
75019 Paris.
01 40 18 16 16.
Couscouss and Grill.
La Chaumière.
46, avenue Secrétan.
75019 Paris.
01 42 06 54 69.
French High Cuisine. Expensive.
House Grill.
44 rue d’Hautpoul.
75019 Paris.
01 42 01 20 30.
Chinese. Not bad.
Petit Pelleport.
52 rue d’Hautpoul.
75019 Paris.
01 42 01 20 17.
French style. Unassuming.
La Villa de Chine.
157, boulevard Serrurier.
75019 Paris.
01 42 41 52 37.
Chinese.
Sushi West Manin.
4, avenue de la Porte de Chaumont.
75019 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushis, etc.
La Marina.
159, rue Manin.
75019 Paris.
01 42 01 36 26.
Pizzas and Pasta.
Gin Fizz.
157, avenue Serrurier.
75019 Paris.
01 42 00 51 28.
Pizzas and Pasta.
4. BELLEVILLE.
La Lumière de Belleville.
102, boulevard de Belleville.
75020 Paris.
01 47 97 51 83.
Tunisian. Unassuming. Unexpensive. Quite funny in the summer.
Chez René et Gabin.
92, boulevard de Belleville.
75020 Paris.
01 43 58 78 14.
Classic Tunisian Food. Hearty, delicious, unexpensive.
Le Relais.
69, boulevard de Belleville.
75011 Paris.
01 43 57 83 91.
Grill.
5. VOLTAIRE-NATION.
Yun Pana.
115 boulevard Voltaire.
75011 Paris.
01 43 79 20 48.
Chinese, Thai, Japanese.
Le Puits de Jacob.
54, rue Godefroy de Cavaignac.
75011 Paris.
01 43 56 06 68.
Moroccan cuisine. Under (questionable) Moroccan hashgachah.
L’Eden.
247, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine.
75011 Paris.
01 43 72 88 99.
French, New Style.
6. THE EAST END.
O You.
164, avenue Daumesnil.
75012 Paris.
01 43 07 68 97.
French Cuisine.
Le Cadre.
87, avenue de Paris.
94160 Saint-Mandé.
01 43 28 38 43.
French and Italian Cuisine.
Le Cadre.
125, boulevard de Créteil.
94100 Saint-Maur.
01 55 97 40 06.
French and Italian Cuisine.
Le Petit Cadre.
2/4, avenue du Château.
94000 Vincennes.
01 43 98 24 21.
French and Italian Cuisine.
7. THE WEST END.
Cine-Citta.
7, rue d’Aguesseau.
75008 Paris.
01 42 68 05 03.
Dairy Italian. Nice setting, almost across the Elysee Palace (the President of the Republic’s palace). Excellent and quite unexpensive.
Il Conte.
36, rue de Berry.
75008 Paris.
01 49 53 01 21.
Dairy Italian, Pasta and Pizza. Excellent, quite unexpensive.
Inter Caffè.
22, rue Cambacérès.
75008 Paris.
01 40 07 03 90.
Dairy, French Style. Not bad, innovative.
Fradgi.
42 rue Poncelet.
75017 Paris.
01 47 54 91 40.
Tunisian. Arguably the best kosher food in town. Natural and flavoury. Excellent fish. Moderately expensive. Ask Mr Fradgi.
Missada.
45 rue Laugier.
75017 Paris.
01 46 22 11 77.
Chinese, Thai. Run by Mr Fradgi’s son. Pleasant place, valuable food, generous helpings, not very expensive.
Jeannot.
110 bis rue Cardinet.
75017 Paris.
01 47 63 71 02.
Tunisian.
Dado’s.
39, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans.
75017 Paris.
01 47 63 06 06.
Snack & Take-Away. Tunisian, French, Oriental, Asian. Excellent food. Rather unexpensive.
Contini Wagram
81, avenue de Wagram.
75017 Paris.
01 48 88 98 16.
Snack & Take-Away. French.
Darjeeling.
1 bis rue des Colonels Renard.
75017 Paris.
01 45 72 09 32.
Indian. Outstanding food, Glatt-Kosher. Take-Away Service. Not very expensive. Make sure to make a reservation in the evening.
Darima.
89, avenue des Ternes.
75017 Paris.
01 45 72 50 50.
Moroccan. Excellent Mixed Grill & Tajines.
Jardins du Belvédère.
111, avenue de Villiers.
75017 Paris.
01 42 27 16 91.
Delicatessen, take-away, Tunisian, Chinese. Quite good (the Chinese dishes are even outstanding) and quite moderately-priced. Open all day but closes at 8 or 9 PM.
Brasserie du Belvédère.
109, avenue de Villiers.
75017 Paris.
01 47 64 96 55.
A French style traditionnal « brasserie ». The food has notably improved over the last year.
Sushi West Jouffroy.
1, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans.
75017 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
The original place.
Sushi West Villiers.
39, avenue de Villiers.
75017 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushis, etc.
Le Chateaubriand.
125 rue de Tocqueville
75017 Paris
01 47 63 96 90.
High quality French cuisine. Innovative. Quite expensive.
Le Cosy.
88 rue Pierre Demours.
75017 Paris.
01 46 22 17 07.
New Style French cuisine.
Noa.
142 rue de Courcelles.
75017 Paris.
01 44 40 04 47.
French.
Il Conte Poincaré.
47, avenue Raymond Poincaré.
75116 Paris.
01 47 27 98 40.
Dairy Pasta and Pizzas.
L’Asiatik.
47, avenue Raymond Poincaré.
75116 Paris.
01 44 05 05 44.
Chinese, Japanese, Thai.
Sushi West Longchamp.
12, rue de Longchamp.
75116 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushis, etc.
Yapany.
23, rue Copernic.
75116 Paris.
01 45 00 12 12.
Snack, Japanese and Chinese.
L’Osmose.
31, avenue de Versailles.
75016 Paris.
01 45 20 74 12.
French, Fusion Food.
Kavod.
26, rue Jean Mermoz.
75008 Paris.
01 42 25 65 26.
French.
Le 138.
138, rue de la Pompe.
75116 Paris.
01 47 27 99 39.
French.
Yun Pana Neuilly.
18, avenue du Général de Gaulle.
92200 Neuilly.
01 47 22 37 25.
Chinese, Thai, Japanese.
King David.
14, rue Paul Chartrousse.
92200 Neuilly.
01 47 45 18 19.
French.
Twenty Six.
69, rue Marius Auffan.
92300 Levallois-Péret.
01 47 57 37 22.
French and Mediterranean.
8. THE LEFT BANK
Le Télégraphe.
41, rue de Lille.
75007 Paris.
01 42 92 03 04.
A posh kosher restaurant right in the most elegant Left Bank area. Breathtaking Art Nouveau decor. Outstanding French cuisine. Outrageous prices. Make sure to make a reservation.
Sushi West Saint-Germain.
169, boulevard Saint-Germain.
75006 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Right in the middle of Saint-Germain des Prés !
Sushi West La Croix Nivert.
236, rue de la Croix Nivert.
75015 Paris.
08 26 88 26 88.
Sushis, etc.
Alef-Bet.
25, rue Galande.
75005 Paris.
01 40 18 17 22.
Not a restaurant but a high quality cuisine school. Sandwiches and hot meals are being served throughout the day. Close to Notre-Dame and the Seine River.
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© Michel Gurfinkiel, 2008
Copyright strictly enforced.